‘Hermès of Durian’: The Luxury Fruit Capitalizing on China’s Billion-Dollar Appetite
China’s surging demand for durians is reshaping Southeast Asia’s farming towns. Driving through Raub, a small town in Malaysia, the unmistakable presence of this iconic fruit is apparent. The aroma wafts from trucks navigating winding mountain roads, leaving a lingering scent in their wake. The area is adorned with sculptures of spiky durians, murals on walls, and signs proclaiming: Welcome to the home of Musang King durians.
Once known for gold mining in the 19th century, Raub’s economy has evolved into a vibrant hub for the Musang King—a buttery, bittersweet variety that has garnered the title Hermès of durians, paralleling its luxury status with the esteemed French fashion brand. Raub stands at the forefront of a global durian boom, fueled by China’s rising demand. In 2024, China imported an astounding $7 billion (£5.2 billion) worth of durians—a three-fold increase since 2020—and now over 90% of the world’s durian exports are destined for China.
– “Even if only 2% of Chinese people want to buy durians, that’s more than enough business,” says Chee Seng Wong, factory manager of Fresco Green, a Raub durian exporter.
– He recalls a time when farmers cut down durian trees to make way for oil palms, Malaysia’s primary cash crop. “Now it’s the opposite—they’re chopping oil palms to cultivate durians again.”
The Popularity of Durian in China
Known for its pungent aroma, which some liken to cabbage or sulfur, the durian has become famous—and infamous. While maligned in some circles, it has developed a fervent fanbase in China:
– An exotic gift among the affluent.
– A social media status symbol.
– The star ingredient in innovative dishes such as durian chicken hotpot and durian pizza.
Thailand and Vietnam dominate durian exports to China, but Malaysia’s unique Musang King is rapidly gaining traction. Prices for regular durians can start under $2 (£1.4) in Southeast Asia, but specialty varieties like the Musang King range from $14 (£10) to an impressive $100 (£74).
– “Once I tasted Malaysian durian, my first thought was, ‘Wow, this is delicious. I must bring it to China,’” states Xu Xin, a distributor from northeastern China searching for the best durians to import.
– “There are so many people who haven’t tried it yet, and the market potential is huge,” echoes a fellow exporter.
The Durian Economy of Raub
Just hours before being savored by Xu’s group, the durians were meticulously harvested from the farm of Lu Yuee Thing, affectionately known as Uncle Thing. His family-owned business exemplifies how durians have transformed lives in Raub, making millionaires out of local farmers.
– Uncle Thing illustrates the economic shift by pointing out the modern Japanese pickup trucks replacing older vehicles once used for transporting fruit.
– However, farming remains labor-intensive. At age 72, he rises at dawn, navigating his hilly farm to collect ripe durians. A painful experience from a falling durian is a testament to the risks involved in this fruitful endeavor.
Once harvested, the durians are sorted by quality—Grade A for the largest and roundest, and a special Grade AA for the best of the best, destined for China.
China’s Durian Diplomacy
China’s insatiable appetite for durians is not just an economic phenomenon; it’s also a diplomatic tool. The country is establishing numerous durian trade agreements, highlighting bilateral ties with major suppliers like Thailand and Vietnam, as well as emerging producers like Cambodia and Laos.
– The China-Laos Railway, launched in 2021, now transports over 2,000 tonnes of fruit daily, primarily Thai durians.
– However, this rapid expansion has raised concerns regarding food safety after the discovery of a carcinogenic chemical dye in some Thai durians last year.
As farming landscapes evolve to meet this demand, Raub is not without its challenges. Farmers face disputes over land ownership, with authorities claiming illegal planting on state land, while farmers contest they have used it for decades without issue.
In China’s Hainan province, an experiment in durian cultivation aims for self-sufficiency, projecting a harvest of 2,000 tonnes by 2025. Despite initial success with home-grown varieties, they still represent less than 1% of Chinese durian consumption.
Uncle Thing remains optimistic: “Hainan has succeeded in its experiment… But as for now, we just need to care for our farms and boost yields.”
As China searches for durian freedom, the Musang King remains a crown jewel, but the competitive landscape is evolving. Even as players diversify, Raub’s steadfast commitment to quality will continue to elevate its durians amidst a dynamic market.